Sommelier Compares The Same Wine From 7 Different Countries | World Of Wine | Bon Appétit

Uncorking the World: A Global Journey Through Pinot Noir Excellence

Have you ever wondered why the same grape variety can taste so incredibly different depending on where it’s grown? As Sommelier André Hueston Mack brilliantly demonstrates in the video above, the world of wine is full of fascinating nuances, especially when exploring a versatile grape like Pinot Noir. This delicate yet complex varietal, revered globally, offers a remarkable masterclass in how environment shapes flavor. Join us as we dive deeper into the seven distinct regions André explores, uncovering the magic of **Pinot Noir** and the unique characteristics each land imparts.

1. Decoding Terroir: The Soul of Pinot Noir

The foundation of understanding **Pinot Noir’s** global diversity lies in a singular, yet profound French concept: *terroir*. This isn’t just about the soil; it’s a holistic term encompassing the climate, geology, topography, and even the local traditions that influence grape growing. Every element—from the angle of the sun and the daily temperature swings to the mineral composition of the earth—plays a crucial role in shaping the final character of the wine. It’s truly amazing how the same grape, Pinot Noir, can express itself so differently across varied landscapes. This concept helps explain why a bottle from Burgundy might offer earthy tones, while one from Oregon bursts with bright fruit, all while sharing the same genetic origin.

2. The Benchmark of Elegance: French Pinot Noir from Burgundy

Our journey begins in Burgundy, France, the historical birthplace and spiritual home of **Pinot Noir**. Here, the grape is not typically listed on the bottle; instead, the wine proudly bears the name of its village, like Gevrey-Chambertin, reflecting the deep-seated belief in terroir. Burgundy’s continental climate, characterized by short, cool summers and harsh winters, significantly impacts the grapes. This cooler environment leads to less sun exposure, resulting in grapes that don’t fully ripen to a deep color, yielding wines with a bright, luminous ruby hue. The region’s famous limestone soil imparts distinct characteristics. These mineral-rich soils contribute to wines that exude minerality, nuances of slate, and the classic “Old World” profile of mushroom and damp earth. This **Pinot Noir** offers bright acidity—a hallmark of cool climates—creating a refreshing tartness that makes you salivate. While a bottle like the 2018 Joseph Drouhin Gevrey-Chambertin might command a price of $90, Burgundy also offers excellent entry-level options in the $30-$40 range, making this quintessential style accessible for various budgets. This French expression of Pinot Noir sets a high bar, often serving as the aspirational model for producers worldwide.

3. The Best of Both Worlds: American Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley, Oregon

Crossing the Atlantic, we arrive in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, a region widely regarded as the premier destination for American **Pinot Noir**. Unlike its French counterpart, bottles from this “New World” region clearly state the varietal. The Willamette Valley benefits from a unique geographical feature known as the Van Duzer Corridor—a break in the coastal mountains that allows cooling maritime breezes from the Pacific Ocean to sweep through the valley. This creates the ideal growing conditions for Pinot Noir: hot, sunny days for ripening and cool nights to preserve acidity and complexity. This balance results in a wine that often displays vibrant, concentrated color, which André aptly describes as “electric raspberry.” On the palate, you’ll encounter a beautiful marriage of New World fruitiness—think big, jammy raspberries, boysenberries, and blackberries—and Old World earthy undertones, like forest floor and tea-like notes, often attributed to the rich clay soils of areas like the Red Hills of Dundee. The Kings Ridge 2021 from Union Wine Company, priced at $20, exemplifies the incredible value and quality found in entry-level Willamette Valley **Pinot Noir**, making it an over-achiever in its price bracket.

4. Electric & Elevating: New Zealand Pinot Noir from Central Otago

Many recognize New Zealand for its crisp Sauvignon Blanc, but the country’s Central Otago region produces some of the most “amazing and sublime” **Pinot Noir**. Located in a warmer, mountainous area, Central Otago’s vineyards sit at nearly 1000 feet elevation, experiencing dramatic temperature swings between day and night. This unique climate allows grapes to develop intense flavor without over-ripening. Here, you might encounter an unfiltered, unfined wine, which contributes to a cloudy appearance but also preserves its inherent flavors and aromatics. Central Otago **Pinot Noir** often presents with a distinct, deep purple, almost grape juice-like color, indicative of a warmer growing environment. The region’s porous schist soils force grapevine roots to dig deep for water and nutrients. This “struggle” concentrates the grape clusters, leading to wines bursting with energetic fruit, like a “cherry coke” or “cherry pie” flavor profile, intertwined with savory notes of tobacco, leather, and fresh herbs like rosemary and thyme. The Burn Cottage Moonlight Races 2020, at $50, offers a powerful, vibrant expression that drinks well above its price point, showcasing the region’s commitment to quality.

5. Germany’s Rising Star: Pinot Noir from Baden

Germany, primarily known for its Riesling, also holds a hidden treasure for **Pinot Noir** lovers: the Baden region. Situated in the warmest, southernmost part of Germany, Baden is “blessed with sun,” a crucial factor for ripening grapes in a generally cooler country. The region benefits from its location between the Black Forest Hills and the Rhine River Hills, creating a valley microclimate. The proximity to the Rhine River also imparts a subtle salinity to the wines, adding another layer of complexity. Baden **Pinot Noir**, such as the Enderle & Moll 2020, typically displays a lighter ruby or raspberry color, reflecting less sun exposure compared to some other regions. These wines often exhibit a “wild” character on the nose, with notes of wet earth, menthol, and crushed berries, along with distinct minerality from sandstone and limestone soils. The older vines, some around 30 years old, contribute to more concentrated fruit. Historically, German Pinot Noir was considered linear and less complex, but modern producers like Enderle & Moll are demonstrating the true potential, crafting wines with evolving complexity, high acidity, and savory spice notes.

6. Sophistication from the Southern Tip: South African Pinot Noir from Walker Bay

South Africa’s Walker Bay is widely recognized as the coolest wine-growing region in the country and home to some of the world’s finest **Pinot Noir**, with Hamilton Russell often cited as a prime example. Producers here often strive to emulate the elegance of Burgundy, creating wines that are both classically structured and uniquely South African. This cooler climate results in a lighter, pale strawberry color in the wine, allowing its intricate aromatics to shine. These wines are typically dominated by intense minerality and earthy notes, featuring sage, thyme, and a distinctive “iron” quality. This unique characteristic is often attributed to the region’s clay-rich, porous soils, which encourage deep root growth and concentrated fruit. The Hamilton Russell **Pinot Noir**, priced at $60, embodies the layered, evolving nature that serious Pinot Noir drinkers cherish, showcasing complex aromatics, refined texture, and a savory depth that can evoke notes of meat or a metallic quality from the soil. This region’s focus on clonal selection—choosing specific grape clones best suited to the local microclimate—further enhances the wine’s unique expression.

7. High-Altitude Power: Argentinian Pinot Noir from Patagonia

When thinking of Argentinian wine, Malbec usually comes to mind, but the vast, dramatic landscape of Patagonia is quietly producing impressive **Pinot Noir**. These wines are grown at some of the highest elevations among the regions tasted, offering a distinct set of growing conditions. Higher altitudes mean cooler nights, which are essential for preserving acidity and enhancing aromatic complexity, even with increased UV exposure from being closer to the sun. Patagonia **Pinot Noir**, like the Barda 2021 from Bodega Chacra, exhibits an intense minerality that leaps from the glass. The palate is rich with dark fruit flavors like plum and cherry, intertwined with notes of bittersweet chocolate and fresh-cut grass, all supported by a firm, dense minerality often described as “wet rock.” What truly sets these wines apart is a noticeable “P-Funk”—a distinctive, earthy funkiness that is a hallmark of many great Pinot Noirs. At $30, this particular bottle offers a more refined experience compared to the $10-15 entry-level options, demonstrating the remarkable potential of high-altitude viticulture for **Pinot Noir** in Argentina.

8. Australia’s Coastal Charm: Pinot Noir from Mornington Peninsula

Australia, renowned for its bold Shiraz, also harbors hidden gems like the Mornington Peninsula in Victoria, a region that crafts elegant and exciting **Pinot Noir**. Surrounded by water on three sides, this peninsula enjoys a maritime climate, characterized by warm days and cooling ocean breezes at night. This climatic balance allows grapes to achieve phenolic ripeness—meaning the skins, seeds, and stems fully mature—while maintaining crucial acidity. The Moorooduc Estate 2018, with its slight orange hue, shows signs of bottle maturity, as red wines tend to lighten in color with age. This **Pinot Noir** offers a delightful blend of fruit and savory notes, with distinct minerality, cedar, and sandalwood, likely influenced by oak aging. There’s a ripe, almost confectionery sweetness on the nose, like cotton candy, yet it remains dry on the palate. The wine also features a meaty quality and hints of keratin, both often derived from the soil composition. Priced at $32, it represents a movement in Australian winemaking towards more balanced, elegant styles, challenging the perception of high-alcohol wines. Exploring a Mornington Peninsula **Pinot Noir** offers a unique regional expression for any curious wine enthusiast. Exploring **Pinot Noir** from these seven diverse global regions highlights the incredible impact of terroir and winemaking techniques. Each bottle tells a story of its origin, from the classic elegance of Burgundy to the vibrant fruit of Central Otago. We encourage you to follow André’s advice: your relationship with wine should never be about monogamy. Gather some friends, choose a theme or price point, and conduct your own comparative tasting. Taste as much and anything as you like—the world of **Pinot Noir** is vast and endlessly rewarding!

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