Jancis Robinson discusses wine glasses: what is the best shape?

Choosing the right wine can feel like a grand adventure, but once that perfect bottle is uncorked, the experience isn’t over. As wine expert Jancis Robinson compellingly explains in the video above, the vessel you choose plays an incredibly vital role in how you perceive and enjoy every sip. Far from being just a container, the ideal wine glass shape acts as a sophisticated tool, designed to unlock and present the wine’s complex personality. Understanding the nuances of wine glass design can transform your everyday tasting into a more profound journey. While it might seem like a small detail, the shape, material, and even the presence of a stem all contribute significantly to the sensory experience. Delving into these aspects reveals why wine professionals, like Jancis, are quite particular about their glassware.

The Foundation: Why the Right Glass Matters for Wine

A wine glass is more than just an elegant accessory; it’s a critical piece of equipment that directly influences your perception of aroma, taste, and texture. Its primary purpose is to enhance, not detract from, the wine itself. Every curve and angle has a functional reason behind it, impacting the release and concentration of volatile aromatic compounds. Imagine trying to listen to a symphony in a noisy, echoing hall; you might hear the music, but you’d miss the intricate details. Similarly, an ill-suited glass can obscure the subtle notes and delicate textures of a fine wine. Conversely, a well-designed glass provides the perfect stage, allowing the wine’s true character to shine through.

Decoding the Ideal Wine Glass Shape

The search for the perfect wine glass shape often begins with a few fundamental principles. These principles are not about snobbery, but rather about maximizing the wine’s inherent qualities. Each element, from the material to the form, serves a specific purpose in the grand act of wine tasting.

Clarity and Simplicity: Seeing the Wine

One of the first things wine professionals emphasize is the importance of a clear, plain glass. Any etchings, colors, or intricate patterns, however beautiful, create distractions. The goal is to observe the wine’s color, clarity, and viscosity without interference, which are all important visual cues for assessment. A crystal-clear glass allows you to fully appreciate the wine’s hue, which can range from pale lemon to deep ruby, offering clues about its age, varietal, and winemaking techniques. Just as a pristine canvas allows an artist’s colors to truly pop, a simple glass provides an unbiased view of the wine’s visual appeal. This transparency ensures that your first interaction with the wine is unfiltered and genuine.

The Power of the Bowl: Capturing Aromas

The shape of the wine glass bowl is arguably the most critical factor in aroma perception. The ideal design features a wider section that gently tapers inwards towards the rim, creating a ‘tulip’ or ‘egg’ shape. This unique form acts like an aromatic funnel, concentrating the wine’s complex scents. When you swirl the wine, as Jancis demonstrates, you increase its surface area exposure to air, releasing volatile aromatic compounds. The inward-tapering rim then traps these delicate molecules within the glass, preventing them from dissipating too quickly into the surrounding air. It’s like creating a small, personal aroma chamber just for your nose. Without this crucial design, much of the wine’s bouquet would simply vanish before you had a chance to appreciate it.

The Essential Stem: Temperature and Control

While stemless wine glasses have gained popularity for their modern aesthetic, they present a significant drawback for serious wine tasting: temperature control. Holding a stemless glass means your hand directly transfers warmth to the wine. This is particularly problematic for white wines, rosés, and sparkling wines, which are best enjoyed chilled. A stem, conversely, allows you to hold the glass without making contact with the bowl, preserving the wine’s optimal temperature. Furthermore, the stem provides a natural grip point that makes the crucial act of swirling much easier and more elegant. This simple design feature gives you better control, allowing you to aerate the wine effectively and release its aromas without warming it or smudging the clear glass. It acts as a handle, keeping your fingerprints off the bowl and your body heat away from your precious pour.

Beyond the Basics: Exploring Different Wine Glass Shapes

Once you understand the fundamental principles, you can appreciate the variations in wine glass shapes, both traditional and modern. While some designs are rooted in history, others are scientifically engineered for specific purposes. This exploration helps clarify why certain glasses are better suited for different wines.

The Universal Approach: A Modern Marvel

Jancis Robinson highlights her favorite glass as an example of a feather-light, thoughtfully designed universal glass. Modern designs often aim for versatility, creating a single shape that works well across a broad spectrum of wines. These glasses typically feature a generous bowl that narrows significantly at the top, accommodating both red and white wines with varied aromatic profiles. The appeal of such a universal glass lies in its practicality and efficiency. It eliminates the need for a vast collection of varietal-specific glasses, simplifying storage and cleaning. Furthermore, attributes like a thin rim enhance the drinking experience, allowing the wine to flow smoothly onto the palate, undistorted by a thick edge. Many modern universal designs are also engineered for durability and, importantly, often dishwasher safety, addressing a common pain point for wine lovers.

Traditional vs. Practical Designs: A Closer Look

History and culture have gifted us with numerous wine glass designs, each with its own story. However, not all traditions align with modern understanding of sensory enhancement. Examining these differences helps discern what truly benefits the wine.

Burgundy Glasses: Embracing Wide Open Spaces

Traditional Burgundy glasses are famously characterized by their exceptionally wide, expansive bowls. The notion behind this design is that delicate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the primary grapes of Burgundy, require a vast surface area to “open up” and express their complex aromas. Jancis suggests this preference might be more rooted in tradition than scientific validation. While a large bowl certainly offers ample space for swirling and aeration, too wide an opening can allow volatile aromas to dissipate too quickly. Modern interpretations of Burgundy glasses often retain a wide base but feature a more pronounced taper towards the rim, striking a balance between aeration and aroma concentration. It’s a classic example where a slight refinement can significantly improve functionality.

The Sherry Copita: A Small Glass for Strong Flavors

In contrast to the expansive Burgundy glass, the Sherry copita is a smaller, often more elegant glass, traditionally found in Andalusia, Spain. Its compact size is perfectly suited for fortified wines like Sherry, which are stronger in alcohol and typically served in smaller pours. The copita’s bowl, while not as dramatically tapered as some modern wine glasses, still concentrates the intense nutty and oxidative aromas characteristic of Sherry. Its design prioritizes the appreciation of potent aromas in controlled sips. Unlike lighter table wines, Sherry’s robust nature means a large volume or an overly wide opening isn’t necessary, and could even be overwhelming. This specialized glass serves its specific purpose beautifully, focusing the rich aromatic bouquet into a manageable space for contemplation.

The ISO Tasting Glass: A Standardized Dilemma

The ISO (International Standards Organization) tasting glass was designed in the 1970s as a standardized vessel for professional wine evaluations. Its precise dimensions ensure consistency across tastings, allowing critics and judges to assess wines under uniform conditions. However, its small, somewhat restrictive size, while excellent for focused analysis, is less ideal for casual enjoyment. As Jancis points out, the ISO glass can feel “mean and tiny” for everyday drinking, making it difficult to fully immerse your nose to appreciate the wine’s full bouquet. While it serves its purpose in a clinical tasting environment, for personal pleasure, most enthusiasts prefer a more accommodating vessel that allows for greater aromatic exploration and comfort. It’s a tool for work, not necessarily for leisure.

Antique & Decorative Glasses: Beauty Over Function

Many antique or highly decorative glasses, like the beautiful rummer Jancis shows, are undoubtedly stunning heirlooms. However, their design often prioritizes aesthetics over functionality for wine tasting. These glasses frequently feature wide, open rims or lack the crucial inward taper needed to concentrate aromas. Moreover, their design might offer little leeway for swirling without the risk of spillage. When aromas quickly dissipate, you lose much of the wine’s intricate character, rendering the tasting experience incomplete. While lovely for display or perhaps for water, they are generally “pretty hopeless” for truly appreciating a complex wine. It underscores the idea that a wine glass must be a tool first, and a beautiful object second.

Practical Tips for Choosing and Caring for Your Wine Glasses

Equipping your home bar with the right wine glasses doesn’t have to be daunting. Focus on a few key qualities that will elevate your enjoyment, without requiring an entire cupboard full of specialized stemware. Investing wisely in a few good glasses can significantly enhance your wine journey.
  • Prioritize Clarity and Thinness: Always opt for clear, uncolored glass without etchings. A thin rim also contributes to a more seamless drinking experience.
  • Look for an Inward Taper: This is the most crucial design feature for aroma concentration. Whether it’s a universal glass or varietal-specific, ensure the bowl narrows at the top.
  • Embrace the Stem: For temperature control and ease of swirling, a stemmed glass is almost always preferable.
  • Consider Durability: While delicate glasses can enhance perception, look for modern designs that balance elegance with resilience, especially if you prefer machine washing. Jancis’s preference for dishwasher-safe options is a practical consideration for many.
  • Start with a Universal Glass: If building your collection, begin with a high-quality universal wine glass. This versatile option will serve you well for most red and white wines before you consider specialized shapes.
  • Care and Maintenance: Many modern crystal glasses are dishwasher safe; check manufacturer instructions. For handwashing, use gentle soap and dry with a lint-free cloth to maintain clarity.
Ultimately, the right wine glass shapes are those that empower you to experience the full spectrum of a wine’s character. By selecting clear, stemmed glasses with a bowl that tapers inward, you provide the perfect environment for aromas to flourish, truly transforming your wine tasting experience.

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